Milan Fashion Week: Rebellion – Voyage New York

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Milan Fashion Week

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Among the “big four” fashion weeks, Milan has organized a heritage but always pales to the youthful London, the high-energy New York, and the glam Paris. However, this season, Milan hits differently with the air of rebellion. 

Despite no indication of any political statements on the runways, the country’s creative team may have been pushed by the reality of a far-right party on the edge of victory. 

Gaetano Pesce, the beloved Italian architect and furniture designer who made Bottega Veneta’s set on Saturday evening, gave a blunt comment before the label’s show. 

“This space is a tribute to diversity,” he stated of his resin runway full of a bespoke, multi-hued chair. 

“It is about the human being; we are all different. People who say we’re all the same – f— them! We are all different, and this is our defining quality – otherwise, we are just a copy.” 

Days prior to the Bottega Veneta show, Diesel tried to democratize its usually exclusive show by crushing tradition and urging the public to attend the event, receiving a massive crowd of 5,000 people, of which 3,000 were guests that were not in the industry. 

And, in a similar move of breaking traditions, Dolce & Gabbana’s clip of Kim Kardashian eating a plate of spaghetti was defiant. 

The last time Dolce & Gabbana made a clip with spaghetti as a prop, in November 2018, the brand sent shockwaves, receiving allegations of racism. The particular promotional clip, which had an Asian model struggling to eat the pasta with chopsticks, was so controversial that the label was forced to cancel its show in China. 

Meanwhile, designer debuts at Etro, Missoni, Ferragamo, and Bally gave new vibrant energy into the week even with mixed feedback from critics. 

Rebellion is almost another word for risk, and not all risks have a good outcome. The week was not without epic fails, including Robert Cavali’s show runway seeing several models slip and slide and delays in shows. But there is a lot to celebrate despite the fallbacks. 

Read also: Princess Diana’s Black Gowns

Rebellion in Designs

Botegga Veneta

Matthieu Blazy’s second collection for Bottega Veneta is a sure win of the week. Mixing womenswear and menswear, the classy collection presented nearly every piece you need in your wardrobe – from jeans and tanks to suits and cocktail dresses. 

Versace

Donatella Versace hosted another highlight of the week. 

“I have always loved a rebel,” she said. “A woman who is confident, smart, and a little bit of a diva.” 

The collection featured a goth girl’s dream in colors of purple and black, presenting mini dresses that are lingerie-inspired, leather, and veils. 

Fendi

Y2K has thrived in the fashion industry. Kim Jones’ newest collection – starring cargo trousers in leather and silk (which Gen Zs love), highlighter green platform heels, and leather mesh dresses – proved this notion more. 

Moschino

Jeremy Scott’s Moschino delivered a glam moment of levity from season to season. 

In a backstage interview with CNN Style, Scott stated that he contemplated global problems, like the Ukraine-Russia war, economic inflation, and assault on women’s rights, when making the fits. 

“There’s so much negativity that we have to process,” he stated, “but we must hold space for joy.” 

Prada

A collaboration between Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons showed its first sashay this season. The pair’s newest collection showed a new alignment between the two highly esteemed designers, who have collaborated since Simons became Prada’s co-creative director two years ago.

Read also: Ye Carefully Crafted New YZY Campaign with Nick Knight and Candice Swanepoel

Photo: Citizen